The Benicia Herald

OUTSIDE PAPPAS on the big night. Courtesy Iona Morgan

Lights, camera, dinner during two-day grand re-opening guided by TV chef

By Donna Beth Weilenman
Staff Reporter

Take some wood slats and add some chicken wire, and what do you get? New lights at Pappas Restaurant.

Those lights, fresh blue and white paint and a vintage cash register caught the eyes of some of the patrons who had reservations Wednesday night for the grand reopening of Mike Anestasios’s Greek restaurant at 1654 East Second St.

It all came about after a whirlwind makeover courtesy the Food Network TV show, “Restaurant: Impossible.”

Guests at the restaurant’s first grand re-opening — another, strictly local event was held Thursday — were told the Benicia episode is expected to air in late March or early April.

Debbie Norman, owner of Bohnet Engraving and Awards, a local company, is a fan of the prime-time series that charges the chef, Robert Irvine, and his support team with making changes at a troubled restaurant in less than two days — and on a budget of just $10,000.

Changes remain a secret until the work is finished, unveiled at the restaurant’s showcase dinner.

Norman made reservations for Wednesday’s dinner, but was among those lined at the restaurant’s fence line earlier that day to watch some of the filming of the show.

She even got to meet Irvine, the show’s star. “He talked with everybody. We were able to meet and take pictures.”

Irvine is known for yelling during the show, but he gave a different kind of shout-out Wednesday night — telling Anestasios to be kind to his employees and urging customers to be generous tippers.

Norman said even the show’s crew members were friendly. She also met Tom Bury, the construction manager. “He talked to a lot of people … he said everything went well.”

She was impressed with the openness of the renovated restaurant. “It’s fresh, and up to date,” she said. Even the restaurant’s staff had a renewed energy, even though they worked late into the night, she said.

Norman and her daughter particularly liked the light fixtures. “They were on a budget,” she said, but if the unusual lights were made inexpensively, they didn’t look cheap.

Those who made reservations for the evening meal had to wait outside before being allowed to enter the restaurant, said Nannette Hardy, owner of A Perfect Ten salon. But she echoed Norman, saying the wait was worth it.

Customers weren’t seated for nearly two hours as the show’s crews finished their work, though most of those in the line used the time to chat with each other and watch as the television crews finished their jobs.

“They were still doing things,” Hardy said. She saw some of the crew carrying out paint buckets and others cleaning up after the renovation.

Anestasios and his family had not been participants in the makeover. They handed over the keys to Irvine, then left for a day and a half.

Hardy is a fan of the show, too, but she said she held her breath when Anestasios got his first glimpse at Pappas’s new look.

First, the Anestasios family was filmed outside the building. “I couldn’t hear the interview,” Hardy said, but she realized Anestasios and his family were being encouraged to look at each other, rather than the camera, as they answered questions.

Then Anestasios was led up to the restaurant’s front door and was told to close his eyes until the door was opened.

“I couldn’t see his expression. He went in, then came out and got the rest of the family and showed them the restaurant,” Hardy said.

“My heart was racing for them. I was hoping they’d like it and that they’d be so excited.”

Hardy said she liked the changes.

“They opened up the bar. It felt like it all flowed,” she said. “It’s brighter.”

She noticed the fabric and trimming treatment on the wall. “That added a nice touch, and added color to the room.”

Another detail she noticed: “You can’t see into the kitchen anymore.” Instead, bamboo and blue screen off the cooking area.

Norman went with her daughter, Brandy Shelton, a teacher, and their friend, Iona Amie Morgan, all of Benicia.

What surprised them first were the new lights.

“We liked the lights made out of what looked like chicken wire and thin pieces of wood slats,” Morgan said. “Pretty clever!”

She also liked the new look of the restaurant’s bar. “The old-fashioned cash register was pretty cool,” she said.

“It’s really cute, and very Benicia — not too much,” she said. “Diners were definitely star-struck and as far as the restaurant improvements go.”

Morgan also liked that Anestasios took time to greet the customers and accomodate a youngster who wanted chocolate chips in his meal, even as the night grew late. “He’s a sweet man,” she said.

Benician Ola Peters also attended the gala event, joining six other friends who call themselves “The Bag Ladies.” They had received special invitations from Anestasios because the Bag Ladies — about a dozen friends who like to shop together — usually have Wednesday night dinner at the restaurant.

Anestasios greeted the women with hugs Wednesday night.

“He’s humbled by the outpouring of Benicia residents. He was overwhelmed,” Peters said.

“The décor is gorgeous: cornflower blue and white.”

She said the décor had a Mediterranean look that supports the restaurant’s renewed emphasis on Greek food on its dinner menu.

“They pulled the carpet,” she noticed, replacing it with taupe laminated flooring.

As for the food, Peters had calamari stuffed with olives, which she described as some of the best she’s ever had.

Others at her table had chicken lemon rice soup, strip steak and a classic Greek dish, spanakopita, a phyllo pie made with spinach and feta cheese.

“They were really impressed with the quality of the food, and how quickly it was served,” Peters said.

Hardy said the camera crews focused on Benicia officials, such as Councilmember Alan Schwartzman, City Attorney Heather McLaughlin and Interim Economic Development Manager Mario Giuliani, as Irvine asked how they liked the meal.

He also took time to describe to diners what had taken place at Pappas over the preceding 48 hours, she said.

Irvine decided to end the event with a traditional Greek custom, breaking a plate — though Hardy said it took two takes for the chef to be satisfied with the effect of the shattering china.

Norman said getting a national spotlight is important to a local business. As the owner of a Benicia company herself, she said, “I know how important it is to stay and shop in Benicia. … This will put new life into the restaurant.”

“I hope this puts Benicia back on the map, and gets people into the restaurant,” Hardy said. Like Norman, she recognized that sometimes residents overlook the stores and restaurants in their home town. “They get forgotten,” she said.

“It’s a big thing for Benicia,” Peters said, echoing Hardy’s thoughts.

“I believe this will put Benicia on the map for tourism and put us in a positive light.”